LIFE in the North Cornwall village of Port Isaac has been coloured by the sea across the centuries. Fishing, trading and smuggling are all part of the long story.

The rugged coast around Port Isaac has witnessed hundreds of wrecks, with around 130 vessels lost between 1823 and 1846 alone. The bell of the Bencoolen, which was wrecked further afield at Bude in 1862, rang out for many decades from a small wooden tower at the former Methodist chapel beside the harbour, while a large anchor, discovered offshore at Lundy Bay to the west of Port Quin in the 1970s, is located on the Platt above the beach. Because of the dangers posed by the sea, an RNLI lifeboat is based at Port Isaac, the first such vessel having been introduced in the 19th century.

The sea has played a key role in the story of Port Isaac in North Cornwall. (Picture: Andrew Townsend)
The sea has played a key role in the story of Port Isaac in North Cornwall. (Picture: Andrew Townsend)

Alongside fishing and maritime trading in the past, smuggling also took place, a hint of such activities being provided by an old once-secret passageway in the harbourside Golden Lion pub. From a different era, the hostelry also has a large gun raised from the wreck of the SS Milly which was sunk off the coast by a German U-boat during the First World War.

Tourism in Port Isaac was boosted by the arrival of the North Cornwall Railway, when Port Isaac Road Station opened four miles inland. That was in 1895 – and the tourists have kept coming.

Smuggling took place at Port Isaac in Cornwall in the past. (Picture: Andrew Townsend)
Smuggling took place at Port Isaac in Cornwall in the past. (Picture: Andrew Townsend)

Port Isaac is part of the St Endellion parish which includes the hamlets at Port Gaverne and St Endellion and the village of Trelights. The grade I listed church at St Endellion, known for its cultural festivals, is dedicated to St Endelienta, a Celtic saint. The churchyard there contains the graves of mariners and fishermen who perished on the coast.

*Andrew Townsend is a journalist and writer. He further explores the county in the informative travel book, Cornwall Favourites For One And All!: A Quick Guide To Good Places To Visit Across The County, which is available in print and as an ebook. More details on Andrew’s books and ebooks can be found via this link to his author page on Amazon - https://bit.ly/AndrewTownsendAuthor

Cornwall Favourites For One And All!, a lovely tour around the county, is available as an ebook on Amazon.
Cornwall Favourites For One And All!, offering a lovely tour around the county, is available as a book and an ebook on Amazon. (Picture: Andrew Townsend)